Hair Terms Explained
Alopecia is a specific term for hair loss which can happen anywhere on the body. There are many types of alopecia that have different causes. Some forms of alopecia are permanent. If not, to reverse you must first determine the cause.
Anagen Phase is the growing stage of the hair growth cycle. This is when the follicle is creating hair and pushing it from the scalp. Average hair growth rate is .5 inches a month. Growth rate is genetic, but can be impacted by deficiencies, illness, scalp conditions and circulation.
Bond Repair Treatment is a type of product that artificially, and temporarily strengthens the internal structure of the hair strand. Extreme damage from UV rays, hot tools, or chemical processes could benefit from bond repair. Excessive use or use if not needed can also cause hair damage.
Breakage is when the hair breaks off from the ends of the hair or splits up the shaft. The most common causes are from heat damage, dryness, rough manipulation, and lack of protein.
Catagen Phase is part of the hair growth cycle when the hair stops growing, just before the resting phase. The hair has not shed, but is no longer growing.
Ceramic Hot Tool is a material that spreads heat evenly. Best if used on medium to fine strands or hair that needs gentle care such as processed hair.
Chelating Shampoo is a deep cleansing shampoo created to remove metals and mineral build up from the hair. Metals and minerals build up on the hair from hard water and chlorinated water.
Clarifying Shampoo is a deep cleansing shampoo created to remove oil, product and build up from the hair and scalp that regular shampoo may leave behind. Best if used once a month, as excessive use can dry out the hair.
Curl Type otherwise known as hair type refers to the specific type of curl on a scale from 1 being straight, two being wavy, 3 being curly and 4 being the coiliest. Determining your curl compare your hair to a chart.
Cuticle of the hair is the outside layer that protects the strand. Close up they look like shingles on a roof, and can be tightly closed or more open like window blinds.
Dandruff is a scalp condition where oily white or yellow flakes are produced from overgrowth of yeast. Oil feeds the dandruff so frequent shampooing (with dandruff shampoo), and not using oil products on the scalp can stop the dandruff. Tea tree is a natural anti fungal that can also help clear dandruff.
Density is the amount of hair over the head. Do not confuse hair diameter of the strand with density, because you can have a thick density of fine hair strands.
Dermatitis is when the skin is inflamed and appears to be a more severe case of dandruff. Different causes such as hormones, stress, weather, and allergic reaction to products. Regular shampooing can help manage symptoms, do not use oil products on scalp or condition can worsen.
Diameter is the thickness of an individual hair strand. Fine, medium, thick, and coarse are the different types of diameter. Finer hair is more fragile needing more gentle care and lower hot tool settings, where coarser hair is more resistant.
Exogen Phase is when the hair detaches from the follicle, this is the shedding phase. Most people shed up to 100 hairs a day, higher density hair sheds more because there are more hairs to shed. The new hair sometimes grows before the old hair has shed, but it can take 1-3 weeks for the hair to sprout from the scalp.
Fairy Knots otherwise known as single strand knots. These are most common on tightly coiled hair, and occur when the hair is manipulated. Using a good detangling tool and keeping the hair properly moisturized can help minimize them. The only way to get rid of them is to trim them.
Follicle is the production in the skin the creates the hair strands. Each individual hair strand has its own follicle to produce hair. These are what need blood circulation to stimulate hair growth.
High Porosity is when the hair cuticle is wide open. This makes it easy for hair to absorb moisture and products, but harder to retain. Using heavier products help with coating the strands promoting moisture retention. High porosity can be genetic, but also happens with damaged or processed hair.
Inversion Method is a technique where you hold your head upside down for the blood to rush to your scalp. This method is used in middle eastern cultures with claims to promote circulation to the scalp promoting hair growth.
Keratin is the specific protein that hair and nails are made up of. Some products include keratin, these products would be chosen in place of a protein treatment to help strengthen the hair.
Ketoconazole is an antifungal medication used to treat fungal and yeast. Can be purchased over the counter at 1% or prescribed by a physician at 2%. If you have a scalp condition needed treatment, using this can speed up your hair growth rate.
LCO Method is the product application process of first leave in conditioner, cream, then oil. High porosity hair will benefit most with this most as cream applied first will provide the moisture and oil will seal it in.
Length Retention is the ability to retain the length of the hair without experiencing breakage. Proper moisture, low/gentle manipulation, and occasional trims can help with length retention.
LOC Method is the product application process of leave in conditioner, oil, cream. This process would benefit low porosity hair as the oil being applied before the cream will prevent moisture loss with out the hair feeling heavy.
Low Manipulation is the ability to reduce manipulation from the hair which reduces the amount of hair loss and breakage. You can reduce manipulation with more protective hair styles and minimize detangling and any unnecessary manipulation.
Low Porosity is when the hair cuticle is tightly closed. This makes absorbing moisture in the hair more difficult, but when it does it retains well. Using lighter products is best, and heat such as conditioning caps, steam, and hooded dryers help open the cuticle with conditioning treatments. Low porosity tends to be very healthy hair.
Mechanical Damage is the inevitable wear and tear on the hair. Over time, hair will experience wear from brushing, shampooing, sun exposure, styling, and hot tools. Hair longer than about five inches will have some level of mechanical damage. Protein treatments once every 90 days can help counter mechanical damage.
Micro Needling is the process of using tiny needles that create micro injuries to the scalp which stimulates the bodies healing response. This is claimed to promote dormant follicles to regrow hair. You see this method used on the temples or bald spots.
Minoxidil otherwise known as Rogain is a hair loss medication that can be applied topically or orally. It promotes the growth phase of hair, and slows down the shedding phase. It was originally a blood pressure medication that had reported symptoms of hair growth, this was because the increased blood flow is now feeding the follicles. A lot of consumers have noticed growth however if your body is dependent on Minoxidil to regrow hair, you will loose it when discontinuing the treatment.
Moisture Retention is the ability to retain moisture absorbed. Key tips using the proper products for your hair and climate, using the LOC or LCO method to prolong the moisture.
Oil is a product made from plants and minerals which can treat your scalp and protect your hair. It can help fight dryness in your scalp and hair by promoting moisture retention. Adds beautiful shine, reduces frizz and breakage.
Porosity is the hairs ability to absorb and retain moisture. The porosity is genetic, but can be altered by sun exposure, styling with hot tools, and chemical processing.
Postpartum Hair Loss is the normal phase of hair loss that tends to happen around three months post delivery. The drop in estrogen from pregnancy, along with the stress on the body from labor and delivery push a lot of hairs in to the shedding phase. This process cannot be avoided, but can be minimized by continuing prenatal vitamins, and if possible minimize stress.
Protein Treatment is an artificial/temporary treatment that strengthens the outside layer of hair that is weakened. Overtime, even the healthiest hair experiences damage that can cause holes, gaps, and splits in the hair. If you are experiencing breakage or have long hair you can benefit from a protein treatment.
Protective Style is a style where the hair is kept for a duration of time to protect the hair from manipulation. It is important that the style is not chosen just for convenience. Protective styles should still be washed and moisturized weekly for health and hygiene of the hair and scalp.
Protenizing is not in the dictionary, this term only used in the hair industry when disproving protein is being put into the hair, such as a protein treatment.
PRP is a process where your very one plasma is drawn and injected into your scalp to stimulate hair growth. There are claims that when this is done hair can grow, however thinning temples can be resistant.
Red Light Therapy is a treatment that uses wavelengths of low red or infrared light to stimulate hair follicles improving hair growth and prolonging the growth phase. Most common setting is 650 nm, 3-5 times a week for 10-30 minutes. Can take up to 6 months to notice growth, and will reverse once stopped.
Telogen Phase is the resting phase of the hair growth cycle. This phase last for 2-3 months where the hair is not growing, before it sheds and a new hair grows.
Titanium Hot Tool is a lightweight metal that gets very hot, and transfers strong heat. Works great for straightening thick or resistant hair from 3C-4C. Note that high heat with titanium tools can cause extreme internal heat damage.
Sebum is the natural oil that your scalp produces specifically from the sebaceous gland in the follicle. Natural oils help condition and moisturize the scalp and hair. Too much can clog the pores promoting hair shed, too little can make the scalp dry and irritated. Not cleansing the scalp frequently can make the perfect environment for excess oil feeding bacteria and yeast turning into scalp inflammation.
Serum is a light weight treatment with formulas that may contain water, silicones, humectants and extracts that’s designed to target the scalp barrier, hydration, and promote healthy scalp or hair growth.
Shedding is a normal part of the hair growth cycle, when the hair is naturally released from the scalp. You notice shedding most when brushing, washing or styling your hair. Stress, hormones, illness, deficiencies, and sometimes seasonal changes can impact premature and/or excessive shedding.
Scalp Detox is where build up is removed from the scalp to reset so the follicles can function properly. Washing and treating your scalp on a frequent basis will reduce or eliminate the need for a scalp detox.
Steam Treatment is when warm steam is used to soften and lift the cuticle allowing moisture to penetrate. If you don’t have a steamer, you can use a warm damp towel.
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