Hair porosity is the ability to absorb and retain water and moisture. Porosity is influenced by how opened or closed your hair cuticle is. Up close, the hair cuticle looks like shingles on a roof, or window blinds, so we will use the analogy of blinds of open and closed when talking about porosity. Genetics plays the initial role, but it can change due to chemical or mechanical damage. There are three types of porosity, and understanding yours can help with moisture retention which promotes elasticity, length retention and overall health.
It is important to understand that not knowing or understanding your porosity and the perfect products is not detrimental to your hair health, you can still grow perfectly healthy hair without applying the porosity rules.
Low Porosity is when the hair cuticle is tightly closed. Imagine window blinds that are all the way closed, not letting any light in. This is how the hair acts with water, the tight cuticle blocks water and moisture out. Low porosity hair is typically very strong healthy hair and has a difficult time allowing moisture to enter the hair, however when moisture does enter, it retains very well. Questions to ask to identify low porosity hair:
• Does your hair feel very smooth and look shiny?
• Does it take forever for your hair to get wet?
• Does it take forever for your hair to dry?
• Does product sit on top of your hair, and doesn’t seem to absorb?
There are also a couple physical test you can try to determine low porosity hair. It’s important you use a clean strand of hair, freshly washed prior to conditioner.
- Pinch your hair on the end, and slide your fingers up the strand. If it feels super smooth, this means the cuticle is closed tightly.
- Spray or mist dry hair with water, and see how the water responds. If the water beads on the hair and takes a while to absorb, it’s low porosity. Because the cuticle is tight, it takes a while for the hair to absorb the water.
A great visual example of low porosity is when people fully submerge their hair in water, and when they come up their hair still looks completely dry because the hair appears to repel the water.
These are characteristics of low porosity hair. Using the right products can help with moisture easily penetrating the hair. Because the cuticle is so tight, it’s most beneficial to use light products because molecules are smaller and able to get into the compact cuticle. When doing deep conditions, using warmth such as a steam towel, a hooded dryer or a steamer can help not only lift the cuticle but also make the conditioner runnier so it can easily penetrate the hair. Many people like to use the LOCmethod when applying products to help with retaining moisture.
Medium Porosity is not talked about enough. The cuticle is slightly opened, absorbs and retains moisture very well. The blinds are letting light in, but it’s very dim. To identify medium porosity ask yourself:
• Does your hair feel smooth and look shiny?
• Does your hair saturate well when wet?
• Does product absorb well?
You can also try physical test listed above to identify. Water will absorb, and the strand should feel smooth with a slight rigidness. Because this is the median, there aren’t issues with dryness or absorbing moisture. It’s recommended to treat medium porosity as low porosity hair, use products that are light weight making it easier for the hair to absorb, and also wont build up on the hair.
High Porosity is when the hair cuticle is most open. Imagine the blinds are wide open allowing brightness to enter the room. Because the cuticle is so wide, it easily allows water and moisture to enter the hair. Unfortunately, you can loose moisture just as easily as you can absorb it. High porosity can be biological, but can also be from chemical treatments or damage to the hair. Questions to ask to identify high porosity hair:
• Does your hair frizz easily?
• Does your hair get wet quickly?
• Does your hair dry quickly?
• Does your hair absorb product quickly, then feel dry shortly after?
There are a couple physical test that can also help you identify if you have high porosity hair. It’s important you use a clean strand of hair, freshly washed prior to conditioner.
- Pinch your hair on the end, and slide your fingers up the strand. If it feels rough or rigid, this means the cuticle is open.
- Spray or mist dry hair with water, and see how the water responds. If the water beads absorb very quickly, it’s high porosity. Because the cuticle is open, it doesn’t take long for water to absorb in to the hair.
These are characteristics of high porosity hair. The hair easily absorbs moisture, the goal is to retain it. Using heavier products are most beneficial because they build up on the hair, creating a coating which seals moisture in. When deep conditioning, warmth from a steam towel, steamer or hooded dryer can help with absorption but should be done in moderation depending on the reason for your high porosity. Damaged hair should minimize heat to minimize additional damage. Many people like to use the LCO method when applying products to help with absorption and retaining moisture.
Porosity is easy to understand, but can be difficult to identify. Fortunately, not knowing your porosity doesn’t mean you won’t have the healthiest hair. Simply using products that make your hair feel the best, and sticking with a consistent regimen that implements frequent washing, conditioning, moisturizing, using Kayhairapy Oil, minimize manipulation, trims and good diet.
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